Driving yourself around the East African bush: A guide to self-guiding safaris.
Driving yourself around on a safari can be exhilarating and exciting. But it pays to be prepared. We’ve prepared this guide for anyone who wants to take their safari into their own hands.
(For ease of navigation, the below table of contents headings will lead you to the section best suited to answering your queries.)
Many people think going on an African safari is exclusively for the big spenders and not possible for a group or family on a budget. This is not always the case. If you are looking for a more affordable, and also more exciting, way of enjoying the Kenya’s national parks, then perhaps the self-guided camping experience is the one for you.
(This guide to self-driven safaris is specifically tailored to Kenya’s Maasai Mara, but, if you’re interested in learning about how to approach East African wildlife, it includes some useful information. Simply use the table of contents for ease of navigation.)
First things first, you will need a capable off road vehicle with 4 wheel drive and low range capabilities. The Mara’s roads can be unforgiving and although its fun to get stuck every once in a while, ideally you don’t want to spend the night sleeping in your car.
Additionally, you will need camping gear such as tents and cooking equipment, if you want to read more about what to bring camping in the Maasai Mara click here.
Finally you will need a campsite, and, fortunately for you, there are many options in the Maasai Mara.
Tor’s Campsite is situated in the reserve which makes it perfectly placed for viewing wildlife, including all the big cats. Tor’s also offers a few extra creature comforts. With hot showers, BBQs, charging points, 4G connectivity and a mini mess tent in each campsite, campers can enjoy all the excitement of self-camping with a few of the rougher edges smoothed away. At a very affordable price, you can get a true African safari experience while also staying in budget.
Are you allowed to drive yourself around the Mara?
Firstly, yes, you are. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t get yourself prepared beforehand. Going on a game drive without a guide can be a daunting experience but it’s also extremely fun and exciting.
For whatever reason they are not done here in Kenya so much, self-guided safaris are very common in Southern Africa and they give you a better insight into the natural environment. That’s something you wouldn’t get sitting in the back of a game viewer, especially as it’s you who has to do the navigating.
Although they’re not absolutely necessary, bringing wildlife books with you is a great way to improve your self-guiding experience. Reading about an animal while you are watching it can give you an expert insight into the animal without needing a guide with you, especially when you start seeing real life examples of the things you are reading.
I would recommend The Behaviour Guide to African Mammals by Richard Despard Estes. Additionally, identifying birds can be a really satisfying experience so I would highly recommend bringing a book on East African birds.
Remember to bring your binoculars!
Driving yourself around: keeping your bearings
So, let’s presume you’ve got yourself prepared for a self-guiding Safari in the Mara. You’ve chosen your campsite, you’ve packed a picnic and you’ve got all the game-viewing equipment you might need. We live in a very modern world and, despite that you’re choosing to safari in one of it’s wildest spaces, we still largely have access to mobile internet.
It’s difficult to get lost with Google Maps as a helpful aid but that doesn’t mean that you should let yourself lose your bearings. Trust me, after driving in the Mara for a few hours every tree and every hill will look the same. In order to keep your bearings and not get lost, try and keep an eye on recognisable landmarks.
Oloololo escarpment
In the Maasai Mara, one of the most recognisable landmarks is the Oloololo escarpment. If you look to the West, from just about anywhere in the park, the escarpment dominates your view. The escarpment stretches deep into Tanzania well North of the northern boundary to the park. So, it’s a perfect lodestone if ever you need to find West.
Rhino ridge
Rhino ridge is another helpfully elevated landmark that is especially helpful if you are looking for Tor’s camp. Despite it’s name, Rhino ridge looks a lot, from certain angles, like the raised nostrils and eye sockets of a crocodile with it’s head just out of the water.
Rhino ridge’s north-facing slope edges down to the Olare Orok river, on which Tor’s is situated. You’ll still have to cross the river (we recommend doing so at the western of the two double crossings), but, if you’ve got Rhino ridge in your sites, you stand a good chance of getting back to camp.
Airstrips
Another helpful guide to keeping yourself oriented are the Mara’s airstrips. You will often see small planes landing and taking off from the various airstrips in the Mara. If you have a map and know generally where you are, watching a plane land can be a helpful tool to pinpoint an airstrip.
What are the rules for driving around the Maasai Mara National Reserve?
1. When viewing wildlife keep a distance of 25 metres (around 5 car lengths)
2. Please keep to a speed of 50km/hr while driving on graded roads and 30 km/hr on other roads in the reserve
3. Always slow down for animals
4. Do not drive off-road in High Use and River Zones (in the Mara Triangle, High Use, River and Low Use Zones are indicated on certain maps but sometimes it can be unclear; if you want to avoid an awkward conversation with a park ranger and you’re unsure about the zone you’re in, it’s best to presume you cannot go off-road)
5. Keep to graded roads and cut tracks in above zones
6. Off-roading in the Low Use Zone is allowed for viewing the Big 5. Use the shortest route possible to the animal and try use the same route back.
7. Unnecessary actions such as clapping, shouting and cheering are not allowed in the reserve
8. Alighting from the vehicle is not allowed at the river crossing points
9. While in the reserve, do not sit nor stand on vehicles
10. Do not cross the Tanzanian border
11. Do not chase, follow or harass animals
12. Littering is not allowed in the reserve
13. No more than 5 vehicles are allowed at wildlife sightings
14. Leave the reserve or return to your camp or lodge by 7:00 pm.
Self-guiding safari: how to approach wildlife
1. Before approaching an animal, assess the lay of the land for best approach routes, safe viewing positions and retreat routes.
2. While ethically approaching an animal, try to not alter the animal’s natural behaviour. For example if an animal is feeding, and stops feeding while you approach, stop the car, turn off the engine and allow the animal to return to its natural behaviour before approaching again.
3. Reduce voices and minimise sudden movements. Be attentive to the sound of the engine, do not rev it to hard and spook the animal.
4. Approach slowly and from the side, avoid moving straight towards the animal.
5. Should an animal change behaviour and show nervous, sensitive or aggressive signs, stop and switch off the vehicle immediately.
6. Allow the animal to relax before you continue approaching it.
7. Do not approach too closely! Especially, if the animal is hunting.
8. Never corner an animal; ensure both you and animal have escape routes.
9. Do not exit the vehicle while at a sighting!
10. When retreating from a sighting, do so slowly and with respect to the animal and the environment.
Predators
If you are lucky enough to find predators that are hunting, then try and follow these guidelines.
1. When following hunting predators, drive to the side of the animal and not directly behind it. When the animal stops to listen, turn off your vehicle.
2. It is best to keep a safe distance from the hunting animal and its potential prey.
3. Try not to alert the prey of your presence, as they may look at your vehicle and realise that predators are around.
4. Allow the predator to secure the prey before starting your vehicle and moving-in for a closer view. Remember that cheetah specifically can be very nervous around kills; your approach may chase them off the kill. Other cats such as lions and leopards can become aggressive around kills.
Which animals should I be wary of?
Although the Maasai Mara has a very relaxed community of animals that are used to the sights and sounds of game viewers, there are certain animals you should be wary of when doing self-guided tours.
Elephants
Elephants undoubtedly require the most caution while you are viewing them. While most are very accustomed to cars, there are certain situations in which a light-handed approach is necessary. If you note any aggressive behaviour (the lifting of ears, an elephant’s iconic trumpeting, the pawing of earth with it’s forelegs), you should approach with caution or keep a safe distance. However, keeping calm and quiet will always stand you in good stead.
Bull Elephants in Musth
Bull elephants in musth are undoubtedly the most dangerous animals you are likely to see whilst on a safari around the Maasai Mara. They require special attention if you are to encounter them.
Musth is the period of time where the male reproductive hormone, testosterone, is at its highest in bull elephants and can make them quite aggressive. So when approaching a bull elephant in musth, which might be alone, it is best to be very cautious and attentive to the bull’s behaviour. If the animal shows signs of aggression, give them a wide berth.
How to identify a male elephant:
Apart from the obvious, which can sometimes be seen hanging down between the elephants back legs, there is other ways to identify a male elephant.
Identifying a bull elephant in musth:
If you do come across a bull elephant in musth it is possible that the elephant will come quite close to the car and it can begin to act aggressively: sticking out it’s ears and shaking its head. At this point your first instinct may be to start the car and drive off as quick as possible. Do NOT do this!
If you do find yourself confronted with a bull elephant, the best thing to do is stay calm and follow these steps:
· Do NOT to make any loud noises or sudden movements. This includes other passengers in the car.
· Do NOT start the engine! The elephant may interpret this as a challenge and become more aggressive. Many people have made the mistake of starting the engine and reversing away, which starts a long process of the elephant following the car and you reversing all the way back to Nairobi.
· Wait for the elephant to move off. Stay calm and wait for the elephant to move away, this could take an uncomfortable amount of time, however, gradually the elephant will stop seeing you as a threat and move off.
· Once the elephant is several metres away and not looking at your car, start the engine and slowly drive off, do not rev the vehicle hard as this could also be interpreted as a challenge by the elephant.
Other animals to be cautious around
Most other animals are used to the presence of safari vehicles and will give you little trouble. Obviously, you must still remain wary, especially when around the bigger grazers such as Cape Buffalo and, if you are lucky enough to find them, Rhinoceros.
Am I allowed to stop to eat, use the bathroom or have a sundowner?
Stopping for breakfast, lunch or a sundowner is permitted and you can exit your car. However, you must be careful about where you stop. Obviously the aim is to try and avoid stopping and alighting your vehicle around dangerous animals. So, assess your spot carefully. Choose one that isn’t near foresting trees or bushes that may be camouflaging animals inside them.
If you do stop near some bushes for a meal or a toilet break, clap loudly several times, this will alert any animals to your presence and encourage them to move off. It’s a great way to avoid getting caught with your pants round your ankles, literally.
How should I handle river crossings driving by myself?
The Mara is full of exciting river crossings that can be intimidating to an in-experienced driver. A good way to know the best route is to watch another car do it first.
Judging if your car can make it through high water comes with experience so if you are in doubt maybe try finding an alternative route. If you do decide to drive through a high river, many people make the mistake of driving as quickly as possible through it. Don’t do this, as you can damage your radiator and find yourself in a much more difficult situation. You will want to keep a slow but steady pace through the water, try not to stop and definitely try not let the engine cut out, as you won’t be able to start the car again if your exhaust is under water.
When descending or ascending a steep slope into a river, put your car in low range and keep it in a low gear, this will keep the car moving slow but put more power into the wheels turning. Trust me, river crossings often look more difficult than they are and pulling one off with your buddies in the back can make you feel like a seasoned safari guide. So, just follow the old adage: keep calm and carry on.
Enjoy yourself
Lastly, and most importantly, remember to enjoy yourselves. Guiding yourself through the wilderness of Africa can be scary and you may well encounter some challenges along the way but that’s all part of the experience. It is what makes self-guiding so much fun.
If you remember to be respectful of the animals and the environment, if you keep your bearings and pack a few beers for the journey, then you will be able to experience the majesty of wild Africa in a unique and intimate way.
